reading the logbook…
Style surface
Untouched in this window: . That's the dent.
problems tried here have no style tags, so they count only in the totals.
Vs par compares sends with what your overall send rate at each problem's grade would predict, so a style isn't flattered by being tried on easy problems. 1.0× is par. Judged (↑ ↓) once a style has + problems tried. Overall: of sent (), flashed.
Why attempts didn't go
Counted per logged attempt (one log can hold several goes). failed attempts in this window, without a reason.
Progress
Send rate problems sent ÷ problems tried, per
Goes per send attempts it took, earlier sessions included
Peak grade is an output. Send rate and goes-per-send falling or rising is the earlier signal.
| from | tried | sent | rate | hardest | flash | goes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pyramid
Sends are problems first sent in this window; repeats are left out (they're volume, not new sends).
Load
No fast ramps in this window.
: load more than × the previous four weeks' average. Tendons adapt slower than muscle, so a gentler week after a spike is cheap insurance.
Estimated load per week goes × effort
Load = each go weighted by effort: easy , worked , limit (unrated counts as worked). An estimate, useful for its shape rather than its units.
| week of | sessions | goes | at limit | min | load |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Projects
No open projects in current sets. Everything you've tried, you've sent.
sessions openSets get stripped every few weeks. A project in a set that's five or more weeks old is worth getting back on soon.